During the second half of the summer I managed to spend pathetically little time up in the alpine, and pathetically little time climbing in general. This was largely because I spent a few weeks remodeling the SHWOP (small house without plumbing) in my dad’s backyard that is my home. I did, however, manage to climb South Early Winter Spire via the Direct East Buttress with my brother, Booth, and our Bulgarian friend, Boris Lukanov. And on a separate occasion, I went and climbed the classic Northeast Buttress of Slesse with Alex Honnold.
Booth following the first 5.11 pitch on the East Buttress of SEWS. I thought this lower-angle slabbier pitch was harder than the steeper, but more featured 5.11 pitch above.
Alex in the Pocket Glacier cirque below the East Face of Mt. Slesse, about to put on crampons for his second time ever!
Alex escaping the chaos of the Pocket Glacier.
Mr. Honnold putting on his most extreme face high on the Northeast Buttress. We simul-soloed most of the route, but I asked for the rope on the 5.10 direct variation. I’m quite glad I did, because we accidently climbed a 5.11/A0 variation to it.
Later this week I’m giving slideshows in Seattle, Portland and Eugene on the new route I climbed on Mt. Foraker in June with Bjørn-Eivind Årtun.
Wednesday, Sept. 29, 7pm, at Feathered Friends in Seattle. Free admission.
Thursday, Sept. 30, 7pm, at the Mazama Mountaineering Center in Portland. Admission is $10, but proceeds go to fund the Mazama grant program.
Friday, Oct. 1, 7:30pm, at Backcountry Gear in Eugene. Admission is $5.