NUGGET #2 – current recommendations from Patagonia

NUGGET: NERDY, UNSOLICITED, GREAT GEAR ENDORSEMENT / TIP For total transparency, I will mention straight away that one of my contacts at Patagonia (the company, not the place) asked me recently if I would mind making another one of my nerdy gear posts, highlighting my favorite Patagonia gear. However, the pieces of gear that I … Continue reading NUGGET #2 – current recommendations from Patagonia

“Some people love flowers; others love clouds; I love dihedral.” Farewell Korra

It’s been several weeks now since Korra Pesce died while descending Cerro Torre. The circumstances of his death were brutal and it makes me sad to dwell on them for too long. Much has already been said about the accident, and the fantastic ascent that preceded it, so I won’t write much about either. A … Continue reading “Some people love flowers; others love clouds; I love dihedral.” Farewell Korra

NUGGET #1 – the Petzl PUR’LINE

NUGGET: NERDY, UNSOLICITED, GREAT GEAR ENDORSEMENT / TIP This is the first iteration of something I’ve been thinking of starting for a while. The purpose of these “NUGGET” posts will be to share some bits of climbing/mountaineering equipment that I feel are exceptionally good/functional/useful, with some explanation of why I think they are so good. … Continue reading NUGGET #1 – the Petzl PUR’LINE

Chaltén 2020

It hasn't been long since I departed El Chaltén, but sitting in quarantine due to the Covid-19 pandemic, it already feels like a long time ago. I spent the entirety of January and February in El Chaltén (Argentine Patagonia), teamed up for the month of January with Fabian Buhl, and teamed up for the month … Continue reading Chaltén 2020

A Brief Visit to Patagonia, and Reflections on Hard Solo Climbing

I’m currently beginning the long journey back from El Chaltén, concluding my shortest-yet trip to Patagonia, and by far my least productive. I have by now made a total of 16 trips to El Chaltén, and the biggest, most stable window of good weather I’ve ever seen was during the past two weeks. However, August … Continue reading A Brief Visit to Patagonia, and Reflections on Hard Solo Climbing

Not Sending the Gnar in Peru

I’m currently traveling from Peru to Chamonix, reflecting on a totally unsuccessful three and a half weeks in the Cordillera Blanca. At the end of May I traveled with my special lady friend, Alisa, to Huaraz, the major city in Peru’s Ancash region, situated adjacent to the Cordillera Blanca. Unfortunately, after only about 24 hours … Continue reading Not Sending the Gnar in Peru

A Taste of Khan Tengri

Khan Tengri is one of a bunch of mountains that often get called “one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.” I think those statements are pretty silly, since beauty is so extremely subjective, but I do personally think that Khan Tengri is a particularly beautiful mountain. I’ve felt that way since first seeing … Continue reading A Taste of Khan Tengri

Cassin Ridge Speed Solo

BACKGROUND I have recently returned to civilization from my eighth expedition to Denali [edit: Not recently anymore! This blog post is finally making it online 3 months after the fact...], the highest mountain in North America. Although the summit of Denali is only 6,155 meters, I think the altitude on the summit of Denali feels … Continue reading Cassin Ridge Speed Solo

Chalten 2017-2018 Photo Essay

On the Argentine side of the Patagonian Andes, the Chaltén Massif is a dense range of extremely steep mountains, famous for Cerro Torre and Chaltén itself (the native name for the peak also known as Fitz Roy). I have been coming to this mountain range on an annual basis since 2003, often for a three-month … Continue reading Chalten 2017-2018 Photo Essay