01 GUILLAUMET 02 GORRA BLANCA 03 LOMA BLANCA 04 TORRE VOLONQUI 05 GORETTA PILLAR SOLO 06 CORAZÓN ATTEMPT 07 REFLECTIONS As I have done sometimes in the past, I am beginning to write this blog post while sitting on a bus from El Chaltén to El Calafate. After more than three months in El Chaltén, … Continue reading Chaltén 2022-2023: Pilar Goretta Solo, El Corazón Attempt, and Respect to Sean
Tag: Alpinism
Fitz Roy Winter Solo
During the past few years I have been lazy about writing on my blog. I think this is largely because I now share snippets of my climbing on social media, and after already writing about a climb on social media, even if only very succinctly, some of my motivation to write more deeply has dissipated. … Continue reading Fitz Roy Winter Solo
Viking Alpinism
In May 2006 I spent a magical week in the Lofoten Islands of northern Norway. Situated above the arctic circle (aka, outside of the "moral circle"), and jutting out into the North Atlantic, the Lofoten Islands have an enchanting scenery of craggy peaks coming straight out of the rough ocean. My trip to Lofoten in … Continue reading Viking Alpinism
Cerro Torre Attempts
My last two forays into the mountains of the Fitz Roy massif were to attempt a natural line on the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre. Zack Smith and I made an attempt that was thwarted by iffy weather, and a week later I made another attempt with Rolando Garibotti and Doerte Pietron, to the exact … Continue reading Cerro Torre Attempts
David Lama and Cerro Torre – Good news
A couple days ago, on January 28th, David Lama posted on his blog that he will not rappel-bolt on Cerro Torre. It is written in German, but Doerte Pietron made a quick translation for me. The third paragraph, where he refers about his planned tactics, roughly reads: "Unfortunately I couldn't take a look at the … Continue reading David Lama and Cerro Torre – Good news
Clarifications about Cerro Torre, David Lama and Redbull
After making my earlier blog post, most all of the climbers in El Chalten headed into the mountains in pursuit of a forecasted weather window. The weather window turned out worse than was forecasted, which was a relief for me because I've got a bit of a cold and wouldn't have been able to climb … Continue reading Clarifications about Cerro Torre, David Lama and Redbull
Cerro Torre, David Lama and Redbull
In 1959, Cesare Maestri attempted to climb Cerro Torre via it's North Face. At some point during the climb, descent, or descent of the glacier below the face, Maestri's climbing partner, Toni Egger, perished. Maestri claimed that they had made the first ascent of Cerro Torre, and the third member of the expedition, Cesarino Fava, … Continue reading Cerro Torre, David Lama and Redbull