I’ve never been one to keep a journal, and in recent years I have realized that, regardless of how interesting it may be or not be to others, this blog is quite valuable to myself. While we are accustomed to thinking of wealth in terms of money and property and material, I think that true … Continue reading A Frigid Spanking – Attempting a Winter Solo Ascent of Cerro Torre
Tag: cerro torre
Chaltén 2020
It hasn't been long since I departed El Chaltén, but sitting in quarantine due to the Covid-19 pandemic, it already feels like a long time ago. I spent the entirety of January and February in El Chaltén (Argentine Patagonia), teamed up for the month of January with Fabian Buhl, and teamed up for the month … Continue reading Chaltén 2020
Chalten 2015-2016
Because this blog post is so long, I’ve divided it into chapters: 1. INTRODUCTION 2. CALIFORNIA ROUTE SOLO 3. SUPERCANALETA CAR-TO-CAR 4. CERRO SOLO, “EL DRAGON” 5. CERRO HUEMUL 6. TORRE EGGER AND PUNTA HERRON, SOLO 7. CERRO HUEMUL, “END OF FAITH” 8. TORRE TRAVERSE IN A DAY 9. WAVE EFFECT IN A DAY … Continue reading Chalten 2015-2016
Chalten 2014-2015
2014-2015 Chalten Season Because this blog post is so long, I've broken it up into chapters: 1) Introduction 2) Torre de la Medialuna and Rescues 3) Tomahawk and Aguja Cuatro Dedos 4) Piergiorgio Attempt 5) La Travesía del Oso Buda 6) Cerro Torre Southeast Ridge Attempt 7) Directa de la Mentira 8) Torre Egger Daytrip … Continue reading Chalten 2014-2015
The Corkscrew
After Sarah and I had rested from Fitz Roy, we unfortunately squandered several more days of good weather. However, this weather window turned out to be longest I have ever seen here in El Chalten, and I had yet another chance to go climbing. Sarah headed to Bariloche to start an intensive Spanish language course, … Continue reading The Corkscrew
Ragnivenas Attempt
Papa Noel brought a few days of calm but humid weather to the Chalten massif over Christmas, with poor conditions for rock climbing, but good conditions for crampon climbing. Jon and I hiked into the Torre Valley on the 23rd, and on the 24th we passed through the Standhardt Col into the Circo de las … Continue reading Ragnivenas Attempt
Cerro Solo and Cerro Torre
I have once again escaped to the Austral summer in Argentine Patagonia, returning as usual to the town of El Chalten. The nature of Patagonian alpinism continues to evolve at a rapid pace. The availability of reliable weather forecasts and route information (in particular, the publication of the massif's first guidebook, by Rolando Garibotti), combined … Continue reading Cerro Solo and Cerro Torre
Cerro Torre Attempts
My last two forays into the mountains of the Fitz Roy massif were to attempt a natural line on the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre. Zack Smith and I made an attempt that was thwarted by iffy weather, and a week later I made another attempt with Rolando Garibotti and Doerte Pietron, to the exact … Continue reading Cerro Torre Attempts
David Lama and Cerro Torre – Good news
A couple days ago, on January 28th, David Lama posted on his blog that he will not rappel-bolt on Cerro Torre. It is written in German, but Doerte Pietron made a quick translation for me. The third paragraph, where he refers about his planned tactics, roughly reads: "Unfortunately I couldn't take a look at the … Continue reading David Lama and Cerro Torre – Good news
Clarifications about Cerro Torre, David Lama and Redbull
After making my earlier blog post, most all of the climbers in El Chalten headed into the mountains in pursuit of a forecasted weather window. The weather window turned out worse than was forecasted, which was a relief for me because I've got a bit of a cold and wouldn't have been able to climb … Continue reading Clarifications about Cerro Torre, David Lama and Redbull