BACKGROUND I have recently returned to civilization from my eighth expedition to Denali [edit: Not recently anymore! This blog post is finally making it online 3 months after the fact...], the highest mountain in North America. Although the summit of Denali is only 6,155 meters, I think the altitude on the summit of Denali feels … Continue reading Cassin Ridge Speed Solo
I’ve just returned to Seattle from a trip to the Central Alaska Range, which was shorter than most with only two weeks of camping at Kahiltna Base Camp, but more successful than some Alaska Range trips I’ve done three times the length. In May 2012 I attempted to solo Begguya (the third-highest peak in … Continue reading Begguya North Buttress Solo Ascent
This blog post is dedicated to my good friend and longtime climbing partner, Mark Westman. I first met Mark in 2001 at Seattle’s Vertical World (the country’s first climbing gym), during Dale Remsberg’s birthday party. I was just a sixteen-year-old highschool kid, but already completely obsessed with alpine climbing, and I had heard stories about … Continue reading Infinite Spur Laps
NOTE: THIS IS A BLOG POST THAT I WROTE IN EARLY JUNE. IT'S ONLY TWO MONTHS OLD! It's been an odd spring for me. Always for me the most difficult aspect of my Patagonia addiction is the conflict it creates with my skiing addiction, and after spending most of the winter in the Austral summer, … Continue reading Spring in North America – Skiing and Crevasse Falls!
I've just returned to Seattle after spending 41 days on the Kahiltna Glacier with Norwegian friend Nils Nielsen. Due to unlucky timing with weather and conditions we were unsuccessful on our main objectives, but it was an enjoyable trip nonetheless. We flew into Kahiltna Basecamp on May 12. We wanted to do some easy peak … Continue reading Kahiltna 2011: Easy Peak Bagging and Single-Push Failures
HERE, FIRSTOFF, IS A TRIP SUMMARY: Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and I have just come out from a 37-day trip to Denali and Mt. Foraker, which was partially funded by a Mugs Stump Award and the Norwegian Alpine Club (NTK). Here is a report of what we did. We flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier on May 13, … Continue reading Alaska 2010: Dracula and Cassin Simul-Solo