Begguya North Buttress Solo Ascent

  I’ve just returned to Seattle from a trip to the Central Alaska Range, which was shorter than most with only two weeks of camping at Kahiltna Base Camp, but more successful than some Alaska Range trips I’ve done three times the length. In May 2012 I attempted to solo Begguya (the third-highest peak in … Continue reading Begguya North Buttress Solo Ascent

Minivan Alpinism in Canada

Despite my best intentions to dedicate myself to becoming a better rock climber, I somehow keep getting distracted by the call of high mountains... This past summer I tried to rock climb in Squamish a fair amount, but found myself returning a few times to the interior ranges of BC - The Canadian Rockies and … Continue reading Minivan Alpinism in Canada

Jardines Japoneses

The last several weeks delivered mostly all bad weather to the Chalten region. On one of a few slightly better days, Tommy Caldwell and I headed out to climb the Brenner Ridge on Aguja Guillaumet. Guillaumet is one of the smallest, most accessible of the spires here, but nonetheless it was fun to get out … Continue reading Jardines Japoneses

Devil’s Thumb, The Diablo Traverse

Mikey Schaefer ( and I have just come back to Seattle from a quick, fantastic trip to the Stikine Icecap region, on the BC-Alaska border, near Petersburg, Alaska. I have been planning to visit Devil's Thumb for years, but until now never made it to this beautiful mountain range. Our objective was a complete traverse … Continue reading Devil’s Thumb, The Diablo Traverse