Begguya North Buttress Solo Ascent

I’ve just returned to Seattle from a trip to the Central Alaska Range, which was shorter than most with only two weeks of camping at Kahiltna Base Camp, but more successful than some Alaska Range trips I’ve done three times the length. In May 2012 I attempted to solo Begguya (the third-highest peak in … Continue reading Begguya North Buttress Solo Ascent

Kahiltna 2011: Easy Peak Bagging and Single-Push Failures

I've just returned to Seattle after spending 41 days on the Kahiltna Glacier with Norwegian friend Nils Nielsen. Due to unlucky timing with weather and conditions we were unsuccessful on our main objectives, but it was an enjoyable trip nonetheless. We flew into Kahiltna Basecamp on May 12. We wanted to do some easy peak … Continue reading Kahiltna 2011: Easy Peak Bagging and Single-Push Failures

Alaska 2010: Dracula and Cassin Simul-Solo

HERE, FIRSTOFF, IS A TRIP SUMMARY: Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and I have just come out from a 37-day trip to Denali and Mt. Foraker, which was partially funded by a Mugs Stump Award and the Norwegian Alpine Club (NTK). Here is a report of what we did. We flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier on May 13, … Continue reading Alaska 2010: Dracula and Cassin Simul-Solo