This blog post is dedicated to my good friend and longtime climbing partner, Mark Westman. I first met Mark in 2001 at Seattle’s Vertical World (the country’s first climbing gym), during Dale Remsberg’s birthday party. I was just a sixteen-year-old highschool kid, but already completely obsessed with alpine climbing, and I had heard stories about … Continue reading Infinite Spur Laps
Author: Colin Haley
Chalten 2015-2016
Because this blog post is so long, I’ve divided it into chapters: 1. INTRODUCTION 2. CALIFORNIA ROUTE SOLO 3. SUPERCANALETA CAR-TO-CAR 4. CERRO SOLO, “EL DRAGON” 5. CERRO HUEMUL 6. TORRE EGGER AND PUNTA HERRON, SOLO 7. CERRO HUEMUL, “END OF FAITH” 8. TORRE TRAVERSE IN A DAY 9. WAVE EFFECT IN A DAY … Continue reading Chalten 2015-2016
Thwarted on Nuptse
I’ve just recently returned to the US from my second trip to the Nepalese Himalaya. In late September I met up with Ueli Steck in Kathmandu, and the next day we flew to the Khumbu region. Our plan was an alpine-style attempt on the southeast buttress of Nuptse East, the line named “Moonlight Sonata” by … Continue reading Thwarted on Nuptse
Colfax Peak, Kimchi Suicide Volcano
This past winter/spring I had a little obsession with Colfax Peak, the prominent sub-summit on the western side of Kulshan. Ever since simul-soloing the Cosely-Houston route with Roger Strong back in 2007 (a couple nice photos from that climb here) , I knew that Colfax Peak held some of the highest-quality alpine climbing in the Cascades. … Continue reading Colfax Peak, Kimchi Suicide Volcano
Random climbing history: Prusik Peak and Cerro Chaltén (AKA Fitz Roy)
Recently, while skimming through Fred Beckey’s classic book, “Challenge of the North Cascades,” I was surprised to see the name Guido Magnone. When I first read Beckey’s book, nearly twenty years ago, I surely thought nothing of Magnone’s name, but this time I recognized it immediately. It made me quite curious, I pestered Fred a … Continue reading Random climbing history: Prusik Peak and Cerro Chaltén (AKA Fitz Roy)
Earthquake in the Langtang Valley
I got on a plane in Vancouver around midday on April 16. I was exhausted. After a four-month season in Patagonia, my six weeks back in North America turned out much less restful than I had imagined. Conditions had been excellent, and I couldn’t keep myself from going out in the mountains a bunch. The … Continue reading Earthquake in the Langtang Valley
Chalten 2014-2015
2014-2015 Chalten Season Because this blog post is so long, I've broken it up into chapters: 1) Introduction 2) Torre de la Medialuna and Rescues 3) Tomahawk and Aguja Cuatro Dedos 4) Piergiorgio Attempt 5) La Travesía del Oso Buda 6) Cerro Torre Southeast Ridge Attempt 7) Directa de la Mentira 8) Torre Egger Daytrip … Continue reading Chalten 2014-2015
Colfax Peak and the Heart of Darkness
I'm breaking with chronological order for once - publishing these reports from winter climbing in the Cascades while I still finish writing up a juggernaut of a blog post about my Patagonia season. Colfax Peak Upon getting home from Patagonia on March 1st, I spent a few days jetlagged in Seattle, dealing with the various life … Continue reading Colfax Peak and the Heart of Darkness
Hunger Games at Cerro San Lorenzo
After years of climbing exclusively in the Chalten Massif, I have finally exposed myself to another location in the Patagonian Andes. I spent most of November underneath Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia’s second-highest peak, with my longtime friend Rob Smith. While El Chalten becomes a bit more like Chamonix every year, the rest of the Patagonian … Continue reading Hunger Games at Cerro San Lorenzo
Minivan Alpinism in Canada
Despite my best intentions to dedicate myself to becoming a better rock climber, I somehow keep getting distracted by the call of high mountains... This past summer I tried to rock climb in Squamish a fair amount, but found myself returning a few times to the interior ranges of BC - The Canadian Rockies and … Continue reading Minivan Alpinism in Canada